Tips for transforming a TXC Husqvarna into the ultimate GNCC racer, including modifications, maintenance suggestions, and a list of resources

I was relatively unfamiliar with the modern Husqvarna seven days prior to the first GNCC this year. I did have a neighbor that spoke highly of his in recent years, but I never got the chance to ride it. Due to a delay in the production of the BMW 450s, it was decided at the last moment to have me and my team campaign the ‘08 four stroke Husqvarnas. I must say going GNCC racing with only seven days to prepare was quite a challenge. Normally, a team or an individual spends a month or two shaking down a new bike trying to find weaknesses, personalizing suspension, doing carburetion etc. Due to things beyond my control, I did not have that luxury this year and there were sleepless nights for me in that first week, including the night before round one in Florida. However, I did get a crash course in all things Husky this year and I am excited and very proud of what has transpired since that last week of February. In fact, after round one and two of the GNCCs, both of the pro riders on my team had earned finishes inside the top ten. I thought that alone, said a lot about the capability of the modern Husky right out of the box. Since that time, we have had numerous class wins, a GNCC class championship, some regional overall victories, and a National Hare Scrambles overall win and the first podium at a GNCC, both of which had not been done in twenty years, since the legend Ed Lojak did the job in 1988.

I must admit that some of my first impressions of the TXC were less than perfect. The gas tank that comes on these bikes is not the best. It is too small for what we do, the brass inserts can spin in the plastic, and the threads in the gas cap have a tendency to bind when trying to put the cap on, especially if you are in a hurry. However, one must not judge a book by its cover. Once you throw that tank in the garbage and begin to study and use everything else, if you are like me, then you will begin to realize judging the bike based on a few things is not fair. In fact, I have become quite a Husky fan for reasons that have taken time to understand. In the text that follows, I will share with you everything we did to make these bikes perform at the highest level. However, it is the things which are not on this list of modifications that really counted toward earning my respect. Consider the following:

Did you know that you can access the spark plug as easy as a two stroke on a Husky TXC four stroke?

Did you know that adjusting the valves on a Husky is way easier than on any other four-stroke on the planet, but you hardly ever need to do it?

Did you know the TXC (carburetor) and the TE (fuel injected) both have kick and electric start and they will start dead engine as fast as a two stroke?

Did you know you can remove the shock without removing anything else?

Did you know that after a whole season of racing and riding we have not yet replaced a clutch, a clutch hub, or a wheel bearing?

Did you know that pistons and rings on Huskies must be made of something special because they also last an unusually long time?

Did you know the seat comes off as fast as you can say Dzus?

Did you know that the Husky TXC comes with a titanium/aluminum header muffler combo that is high performance and does not need to be replaced to unleash all of the TXC’s potential.

Did you know the sub frames are made of aluminum but that we have never seen one bend or crack?

Did you know the standard brakes, wheels, and frame are better designed and perform at a higher level than what most of us off road guys are currently used to?

Did you know that the fuel mileage on my 510 with my three gallon IMS tank is so good that several races this year I did not need to stop for fuel in a three hour GNCC?

Did you know that twice this year before we got the radiator guards from Flatland Racing we had crash damaged radiators that lost all coolant and both times the engines finished three hour events ,while air cooled only, for an unknown period of time. I don’t know if it was the synthetic blend Spectro Oil, or if it is something special about the design of these engines, or perhaps a combination, but after thorough inspection there were things like electrical components discolored but for all intents and purposes the engines were miraculously not damaged.

Did you know that if I had a dollar for every person that came up to me and complemented me on the good looks of our teams TXC’s, with their red and white Powersport Grafx, that I would have a lot of dollars.

As I have gone from race to race, throughout these last nine months, I put together a list of tips that I believe any Husky owner might find useful when setting up or maintaining his or her own modern Husky four stroke. I have also shared the majority of this information with the most influential people of Husqvarna in North America and at the home base in Italy. One of the things I learned this year is that these are passionate people that cared enough about me, my team and our endeavor to come to several races, eagerly listen to suggestions and take pictures of most everything we modified. I have enjoyed working with a company that shares my passion for off road racing. As I learned every little detail about these bikes, I realized everything we modified was not complicated or expensive. Based on the interest Husqvarna took in what we did to our bikes this year, I suspect that even fewer modifications will be necessary in the future.

From the very first moment until the present, it has been a pleasure meeting the surprising number of Husky fans out there. I know there are alot of these people that have a huge affinity to the brand left over from the dominant days of Kent Howerton, and the off-road dynasty of Lojak, Hyde, Roeseler, Cunningham, Hardin, and Melton. Husqvarna has a rich history in this country and I was honored to be a part of this latest chapter. If what I have witnessed this year is any indication, there are exciting times ahead for the Husky family. I want to thank all of those fans who have shown such tremendous amounts of support for the team, and I must thank Amanda Shepherd, Wade Summers and Jeffrey Burnette. This year, I had a lot on my plate, and as a team we had very little time to make things happen. These people came through in a pinch and helped the team get a job done that I believe has earned Husky a great degree of respect in America from the motorcycle racing community and hopefully made all of our sponsors proud.

Now getting back to the technical stuff, most of these things we have done only really apply to very difficult off road riding or racing. Please remember our team members are mostly professional athletes and they push their equipment to extremes in very brutal conditions. We try to prevent any mechanical failures, so we take pre cautions that may not be necessary for us or the average Husky owner. We also ride our bikes more than average, so our bikes may get more abuse in one year than most Husqvarna’s will see in many years or a lifetime. This list was compiled utilizing my teams own experiences throughout this year and some great advice I received during my indoctrination from some long time hard core Husky dealers like Gerald Jones from Upstate Cycle, Jay Hall from Hall’s Cycles, and George Erl from Up-Tite Husqvarna.

I have tried to list these things in the order that I would pursue them in case time, budget, desire or work ethic is limited. As you know, every bike has its idiosyncrasies or imperfections, depending on how the rider intends to use it. I have learned that a Husqvarna is no different. Normally, a dirt bike customer can easily spend an entire year learning what these things are and then trying to figure out what to do about them, the worst part about this process is that if the bike is completely redesigned each year, one wastes quality riding time trying to get things dialed in. As far as the new TXC Husky goes, the research has been done. With that said if you are thinking about buying a new bike this year and are not considering a Husqvarna, you just might be making a mistake. This company is on the move, they have the biggest contingency program and if you want to ride a four stroke, I’m getting ready to tell you everything you need to know so you won’t have to waste your time learning how to set it up perfectly. I hope you enjoy this information because it took me nine months to learn and gather. What follows is, in essence, a Husky TXC four stroke handbook. One can now buy a great looking, durable bike that is well engineered, and then make it even better using these tips, which will allow one to begin logging quality miles immediately (DNF free) and own a bike which will last and last.

Scott Summers

5-time GNCC Champion

4-time National Hare Scramble Champion

  • It is vital to start your bike after washing it. If you don’t, water that might gain entry through the header pipes could over time rust the exhaust valve guides and prevent the valves from moving.

  • The crossover hose between the two radiators can split in a very high temperature, low riding speed, hard on the clutch situation. A guaranteed way to prevent this from happening is to replace that hose with a piece of 5/16” fuel injection hose from your local auto parts store. Fuel injection hose has more reinforcing and will hold up to higher temperatures and pressures.

  • Extremely high coolant temperature could damage the plastic tee behind the left radiator. Up Tite Husqvarna sells an aluminum Y that replaces the plastic tee. Alternately, for those not concerned about a few grams of weight, Lowes has a brass hose barb tee that fits perfectly as well.

  • When doing big jumps we found it possible for the battery to escape its intended location. We used a flat blade screwdriver heated with a propane torch to melt rectangle shaped holes in the rear fender bracing area below the battery. Then we use two heavy-duty cable ties (30” long) to trap the battery between the sub frame and the rear fender where it is designed to be. The battery can damage the air filter if it comes loose and you may not be aware of this damage while riding so obviously more problems could result.

  • The air box has an opening across the top of the air filter above and behind the carburetor. In EXTREMELY wet riding conditions water can find its way onto the top of the air filter through this opening. I believe it is a good idea to close off this opening using a piece of plastic, rubber, or duct tape. Initially we were not sure if this opening was necessary to give the carb all the air it wanted so we made a plastic water deflection shield and initially left the opening open. We fabricated this using a plastic bucket approximately 7.5” in diameter at the bottom. The perfect size bucket is full of Neopolitan ice cream at your local grocery store. We cut it in half and, once installed, this acted as a water deflection shield to redirect the moisture around the filter and it was held in place using Husky existing air filter cradle hardware. We also theorized that some moisture could gain access to the filter from beneath the side number plates where they tuck into the air box. In an effort to minimize this, we used scissors and cut two 3/32 inch thick rubber pieces that act like curtains inside the sides of the air box. The objective being to not reduce air flow but to keep water from gaining access to the filter. On one side of the sub frame, a riv-nut already exists to attach the curtain. On the other side, a hole already exists so we just install a new riv-nut at this location for mounting the curtain. Eventually, we learned that this top opening can be completely closed off without any loss of power, and for additional water protection we installed a piece of open cell foam in the bottom of the air box to catch any splash that might be coming up from the opening in the bottom of the air box as well.

  • The muffler gets close to the air box so it is a good idea to either wrap the muffler with header wrap in that area, or you can use JB weld quick or red high temp silicone to attach some insulated material like aluminized glass cloth to the air box in that location. I bent a thin piece of aluminum (1.25mm thick) and put the insulation behind that and then riveted the aluminum to the airbox. If you use header wrap in this area it protects your leg and the airbox but I’m not a big fan of header wrap because the elements and pressure washer are hard on that stuff over time.

  • I am 180 lbs. ex pro and the suspension on the TXC 450 and 510 at least for me and the GNCC environment needed to be a little softer initially for roots and rocks, yet still have good bottoming resistance. I realize suspension is a personal preference thing. So everyone must really make their own judgment based on their size, ability and where they plan to ride. A collaboration between Drew Smith at Works Enduro Rider myself and recommendations from the factory at Marzocchi collectively led us to some spring and valving modifications that I absolutely love. I cannot express how significant the WER improvements were to the shock and forks. However, the difference for me was easily measured in less rider fatigue, much quicker lap times, and increased fun factor. Drew at WER has many years experience with suspension and prior to starting his own company was involved in the development of the Honda XR’s and Suzuki DR’s, his resume’ also includes competing in twenty ISDE’s so when you have Drew help you dial in your suspension you will be spending your money on a guy that could not be more qualified.

  • To prevent flats and improve contact patch/traction we use Tire Balls. In the front the most commonly used choice is a Pirelli MS32 and we use 34 balls @10psi. In the rear we use an MT-16 or a Pirelli Xtra with 24 balls @8psi.

  • We never experienced this problem; however, the hydraulic clutch has a housing located next to the countershaft. Inside the housing is a slave cylinder piston with an O ring that I was told can fail. If this happens supposedly it renders the clutch inoperable. To prevent this from ever happening just install an X ring which has two sealing surfaces instead of one. George Erl at Uptite was our source. Do not pull the clutch lever in when the slave cylinder is removed. Doing so will crack the housing.

  • The only difference that I’m aware of between the 510 and the 450, is the 510 has a longer stroke. I chose to ride the 510 this year, simply because I have always liked open bikes. I’m 42 years old and the 510 has more power than I felt I could use effectively so Gary Gramer at Holeshot Motorsports helped me with a safe and simple solution. He happens to be a machinist and he removed 20 thousandths from the dome of my piston. This reduced the compression ratio and I immediately noticed the bike was less of a drag racer and more of a tractor. I noticed the bike still had plenty of power but that I could get traction instead of accidentally wheelying or having unwanted wheel spin. I have always liked tractors and this mod. gave me exactly what I was looking for. I also noticed that I used a lot less energy once the compression was reduced. I believe this mod is responsible for other positive effects that were not so easily noticed, like even easier starting, cooler operating temperatures, less wear, and perhaps even better gas mileage, etc.

  • To prevent fuel from running out of the vent line (especially when braking hard or going downhill) on the IMS dry break tanks, we installed a one way valve. However it is important to make sure this valve lets pressure out of the tank if the gasoline heats up. We did this by drilling a tiny (small as possible) hole in the brass plate on a Sun Line one way valve. This mod allows pressure to escape, but fuel loss is negligible. Every dirt bike with an IMS tank is subject to this problem and if the one way valve stops the expanded gas vapors from exiting the tank vent then this pressure will exit through the carburetor vent lines and the result is serious fuel loss, consequently an aluminum tank will magnify the need for modifying and transforming your one way valve into a two way valve. The Sun line valve must be safety wired or glued together after the brass plate is removed and modified. Another potential solution for IMS dry break tank owners is to stuff some open cell foam into your fuel line on your tank vent hose.

  • To prevent the air filter from getting clogged in an extremely dusty three hour event and to reduce the chance of water from passing through the filter, I sewed loop Velcro to the base of the air filter and sewed hook Velcro to an Outerwares pre-filter. This mod allowed me to attach the Outerware before installing the filter without fear of it being dislodged during installation or riding.

  • The jetting that really seems to make my low compression 510 and the stock piston 450 happy is a 182main, stock OBDVR needle, 4th clip position, 55 pilot, diaphragm rod adjuster screw 3 turns out from all the way in (510) Four turns out from all the way in (450). Mixture screw two turns out. Leak jet standard (plugged). Starter jet standard 85. These adjustments are made keeping the following in mind: We used Cam 2- 110 octane race gas mixed 50/50 with pump gas. We also used a Twin Air foam filter, and the stock header and the stock Husky (Arrow) muffler.

  • To protect the engine side covers and to eliminate the possibility of ever bending a brake pedal or shifter we had custom molded guards made to absorb impacts and deflect hazards away from these critical parts. We are looking into the possibility/feasibility of making these available to Husky owners. These are very similar to the guards we made available through SRC that many people used on their XR’s years ago. An alternative is to hope that brake snakes do the job or slow down and go around objects instead of striking them.

  • The standard throttle works fine and has no durability issues, but I really like the aluminum throttle tube with various cams from G-2 Ergonomics. Sam at G2 custom built me the Scott Summers cam which uses a different throttle housing. This allows the rider (on any modern powerful four stroke) to twist the throttle easier and better control the big surge of power coming from the engine. In the kits, they provide several options including the stock configuration but the cam specifically made for me goes a step further and makes the throttle turn even longer than the cam options sold in the current kits. Sam will reproduce this configuration for Husky owners and I recommend this for anyone who would like more precision in feeding the carburetor the perfect dose of fuel. G-2 also makes nylon threaded insert s that are the best way to secure your aluminum hand guards to the bar ends that I have ever seen or used.

  • In the unlikely event that the left radiator gets bent forward, the radiator hose attached to the bottom of the radiator will come in contact with the header pipe which will burn a hole in the radiator hose. We wrap the inside header pipe with exhaust header wrap and we used a thermo sleeve made by Thermo Tec that fits over the radiator hose in this location. We also bolt on aluminum radiator guards which strengthen and protect both radiators. In fact we have not had to replace one radiator since we started using the guards manufactured by Flatland Racing. We do bend the rear mounting bracket to prevent sharp edges from contacting radiator fins.

  • At the junction where the header goes into the muffler, I have seen people melt their riding pants and or boots. When riding, my leg does not touch this area, but if you are standing or leaning against this spot when it is hot you could melt your riding pants. Up-Tite Husqvarna makes an aluminum guard that shields this spot from human contact. I also heard the guys at P-3, Pirie Performance Products make a guard out of some carbon fiber like material.

  • We also discovered that you can remove two bolts/springs out of the clutch on opposing sides, so you go from six to four bolts this reduces the effort at the lever about thirty percent, this is a new discovery and as of today after three GNCC’s (nine hours) and one two hour local race I still have had minimal wear on the plates and no perceived slipping.

  • I have not boiled over any radiators or seen the standard hoses fail but we take the following preventive measures to our cooling system, install a 1.8 radiator cap, install high temperature silicone hoses from (CV4 ), and we use Spectro coolant, with a 265 degree boiling point. We also do not remove the standard coolant recovery bottle.

  • If you decide to use the stock gas tank, when tightening the bolts that hold the radiator shrouds to the gas tank, use extreme caution because the brass inserts molded into the tank can spin. Definitely do not use Loc-tite because this will improve the chance for a problem. The best preventative measure we have found is to put silicone sealant on the threads and tighten just slightly more than finger tight. When the silicone dries it will prevent the bolts from loosening and you will greatly reduce the chance of spinning the inserts. IMS has a great 3 gallon tank that fits perfectly, when installing side number plates just be sure to use the long 5mm bolts so the brass inserts don’t get stripped when tightening.

  • If you don’t use the stock radiator clamps, it might be a good idea to pay attention to the way the hose clamps are turned on the radiator hoses just beneath the gas tank. If sharp edges of clamps with excess length are left exposed to the plastic gas tank I think they could eventually wear a hole in the plastic from vibration. Perhaps duct tape around each clamp would protect the tank from any sharp edges. However the stock clamps are your best bet.

  • Dean, at R&D racing, makes a nice mixture screw for the bottom of Husky FCR carb that allows for easy finger turning, no tools necessary. The official name of this part is the Flex Jet fuel mixture screw.

  • The battery sits in a plastic molded area that is part of the rear fender. The battery can develop grooves over time in the bottom where it rests due to all the movement, vibration, etc. We cut and bent a thin piece of aluminum(1.25mm thick) that is placed between the battery and the fender, we duct taped this piece to the battery and this prevents unwanted abrasion grooves in the bottom and back of the battery.

  • Inside the rear master cylinder, the seal closest to the spring on the piston can develop wear marks sooner than the other. We disassemble and inspect these parts periodically (perhaps every 30 race hours). We use Spectro brake fluid. Over the years I have been notorious for boiling brake fluid, however, with this fluid, it has never happened, so I’m sold on its performance. We also use the stock solid rear rotor all the time, and DP brakes, which we have found have good feel and durability in the mud, water, etc.

  • We noticed the rear brake hose can rub on the right side engine cover as the swingarm moves through its range of motion. We split a piece of radiator hose about 4” long then safety wired it around the brake hose in the friction area then coated the aluminum in this area with Dev-Con Flexane 80 putty, it’s black, it covers any wear marks, it looks good, and all abrasion ceased. Grainger was our source for the Dev-con.

  • In the sub frame, there are riv-nuts installed that provide the threads that the side number plates screw into, these can spin if not seated correctly. They are installed and then squeezed against the inside of the square tubing with a tool that works sort of like a rivet tool. The installation tool should seat the knurled surface into the aluminum. If a bolt will not loosen inside one of these riv-nuts, it can be removed by using vice grips on the head of the bolt, and then turning the bolt counter clockwise while putting a side load on it at the same time. Once removed then you can use a riv-nut tool to seat the riv nut better and correct the problem forever. K&L sells these tools but they are very expensive. We found an inexpensive lesser quality version at Harbor Freight. Your Husky dealer might have this tool and be willing to tighten up the inserts if you have it happen. It’s a piece of cake if you have the tool. MSC also has this tool for 29 dollars and those riv nuts come in handy for other projects as well.

  • After multiple rides and pressure wash cycles the linkage pivot closest to the bottom shock bolt will be the first to collect dirt and seize whereas all other linkage pivots stay free moving longer as they are less susceptible to contamination. One way to help this pivot stay clean and greased longer is to slide a 4”piece of neoprene fork seal saver over the lower shock clevis and the linkage pivot. The neoprene will get damaged from coming in contact with the ground, so we replace it quite often, but it works.

  • To better secure the radiator louvers, we drilled holes through the plastic protrusions in the louver and then use small cotter pins to ensure they stay attached when objects strike the radiator area. If you install the Flatland Racing radiator guards which I recommend the louvers are no longer used.

  • The TXC Husqvarna is a great bike for dead engine starting because it fires up so quickly. It is possible to put the bike in gear and start the machine with the clutch in. If the bike tries to creep forward during this drill this means the clutch springs need to be replaced. Another remedy for this is to use one spark plug washer underneath each clutch spring. This preloads the springs and can prolong the life of your standard clutch springs quite a bit.

  • Taller riders might prefer slightly thicker seat foam especially in the rear section of the standard seat. We accomplished this by supplementing the stock foam with another piece of ¾ “ thick firmer foam attached to the top side of the seat base. Additional material was sewn to the stock seat cover to allow for the additional height of this extra padding. Guts Racing makes some optional seat foams and seat covers for Huskies, I have not tried them, but some information about them is listed below.

  • As I mentioned earlier, the shock can be removed without removing the sub frame. The procedure is to rotate the shock reservoir away from the carburetor when removing and the opposite to install. The rear wheel/swing arm needs to be raised and lowered at two times during shock rotation. Once you do it a few times it is easy.

  • Our bikes were fitted with UFO plastics that fit just as well as OEM. UFO does not make a front number plate or fork guards but they have everything else.

  • Thanks to Powersport Grafx we had two choices of graphics either glossy or gripper and they really do take some abuse and still keep the bikes looking great. They also have a graphics kit made to fit the IMS tanks.

  • Another general consensus amongst the guys on the team was that everyone preferred the foot pegs be sharpened a bit. We did this with a die grinder. Remember if you get them too sharp they are more of a hazard if something besides your boot comes in contact with them, and extra sharp pegs will wear out boot soles quickly.

  • It might be a good idea to Loc-tite the sub frame bolts at the junction where the steel and aluminum meet. I was told these are more apt to work their way loose so we always do it and have never had an issue. We also always loc-tite the rear sprocket bolts as well.

  • We safety wire the little clips that hold the brake pad pins in place just as a precaution. Sticks or stones may try to extract these clips otherwise.

  • We use Cycra pro bend hand guards with the triple clamp mounted hand guard brackets. I sacrificed a top triple clamp to fabricate two sleeves that slid down each forkleg so the Cycra triple clamp bracket could be secured using two bolts instead of one.

  • It is a good idea to use never seize on the chain adjuster bolts that thread into the swingarm.

  • A small piece of PVC tubing/fuel line pressed inside the aluminum bushings on the aluminum engine case guard creates an interference fit between the bushing and the bolt so the bushings stay located and don’t get dropped during installation and removal.

  • We used the T6 carb vent lines and filter made by 7602 Racing. 7602 also makes billet aluminum engine side covers and other bolt on Husky accessories.

  • The plastic air scoops that are attached to the sides of each radiator can fold outward at the edges closest to the riders’ knees. To prevent these from flaring outwards, they can be trimmed to match the vertical surface of the leading edge of the gas tank.

  • We use Tag handlebars and bar pads and each rider has a different preference. However the stock Husky bar has good strength and a comfortable bend as well.

  • Some riders preferred a hot start lever on the handlebar using an aluminum part from Pro Circuit (which screws into the side of the carb taking the place of the red hot start knob) and a thumb lever that came from the Dennis Kirk catalog for attaching to the Magura clutch bracket. The cable and other parts can be sourced through Honda or Yamaha or other brands that come with the hot start on the bars.

  • Our team used the standard Husky sprockets this year. My preference was a 14 countershaft and a 48, 49 or 50 tooth rear. We also are big fans of the EK zero stretch technology (ZST) narrow O-ring chain it is the EK 520 RXO/SM.

  • Historically I have not been a big fan of skid plates because they act like a shovel and they cause the motorcycle to gain weight and they collect mud which hardens with heat and acts like an insulator. However if you are sensitive about protecting your frame rails on the bottom, and want to give the engine some added protection from rocks, George at Up Tite has an aluminum skid plate that fits well and we used it at the Snowshoe, WV round which is notorious for its rocks. A piece of open cell foam sandwiched between the engine and the skid plate helps prevent some of that unwanted weight accumulation.







Spectro Oils of America

Local dealer hyphen necessary

800-243-8645 203-775-1291

Dot 4 racing brakefluid

Spectro golden4

Synthetic.petrol blend 10w40

Foam filter fluid

Mineral hydraulic clutch fluid

Spectro Brake&Parts cleaner

Spectro SPL

Synthetic fortified grease

SX 101 spray lube & rust inhibitor

Spectro coolant

265degee boiling point









Uptite Husqvarna

George Erl


Aluminum Wye


Heat shield






Pro Circuit

Hot start connector part#

HSC04250 also fits KXF,CRF,RMZ


Dennis Kirk

Hot start lever& perch for Magura

Part# 57-4231


Yamaha, Honda,

Or Kawasaki

Local dealer

Yamaha part#’s







Parts required for putting hot start on handlebars


Rubber sleeve

Cable guide










Any auto parts store

One foot 5/16 fuel injection hose

4.29/ foot


Heavy duty cable tie 120lb.

28” long


Natural color pkg. Qty.50

Price 24.25

G2 Ergonomics

Sam Wancket

AluminumG2 throttle tube with 3 throttle cam options

TheG2 Summers throttle cam system




Broc Jamison

1-877-tirebal 502-243-1601

1 set rears for 18”30 tireballs

1 set fronts for 21” 40 tireballs

199.95per wheel

Hand pump with gauge for ball inflating 29.00


Local dealer


3 gallon tank- clear or black. I prefer black because we did not need to look through the plastic to check fuel level. Clear eventually turns brown and looks aged, whereas black keeps a nice appearance over time.

Tank 274.95

Dry Break Receiver- 220.56

R&D Racing

Dean Dickinson


Flex jet fuel mixture screw


Works Enduro Rider

Drew Smith


Forks and shock revalve plus lighter fork springs if required.


7602 Racing

Clay Hamilton


T-6 carburetor vent line and filter hose


Billet aluminum clutch cover


Flatland Racing

Mike Shown


Husky Radiator Guards



Steve Johnson


Red Silicone Radiator Hoses



Local Dealer

MS-32 Front or FIM Front 21”

MT-16 rear or Xtra 18”

Twin Air

Local dealer

Foam Filter

28.95 MSRP

EK Chain

Local Dealer

EK 520 RXO/SM 120 links


Guts Racing

Andy Gregg


Guts has soft, medium, and firm seat foams, tall and standard height.

Foam 54.90

Gripper seat cover 49.90

Other cover 65.90

Tag Metals

Local dealer


T-2 handlebars 1 1/8” oversize

89.95 includes bar pad

Bar pad sold separately


UFO Plastics

Dave Anolak


Front fender

Rear fender


Lower shroud

Side panels

All above kit









Pro bend aluminum handguards with triple clamp mounting brackets/w plastic hand guards


Bike stand


Holeshot Motorsports

Gary Gramer


Reduced compression Piston machining

20.00+ customer pays shipping both ways

Pirie Performance Products P3

Eric Pirie


Boot heat shield

Header pipe protector

Skid plate



164.95 holes can be added for an extra 20.00

Powersports Grafx

Bart Hayes

Graphics kit

Glossy or Gripper

199.95 bike

59.95 number plates

Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:29:20 AM by Treewacker
Scott Summers is the best thing thats happened to team Husqvarna in the last 20 years.

Great set-up info!

Thanks Dirt Bike!
Riding dirt bikes way to long to remember.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008 7:59:52 PM by jr50kid
Scott is the man. Excellent info and perceptions. As a Husky rider myself, I cannot emphasize how much I think Scott has done for our brand.

Thanks for a great article Dirt Bike!
Saturday, November 29, 2008 9:12:58 AM by aabbcc
I thought Kearney was running the Ohlins on his bike?
Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:05:25 PM by chris
scott hope tp see u at miles mountain again this year u run a class act chris gee trail bossat miles mnt.
chris gee
Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:54:49 AM by desertsquirrel
anything scott says is cool by me. I've seen him dead lift an xr600!!! now with ty davis working with them. HUSKY'S will be back. i'm leaving work for the credit union right now!
the desert: almost as good as sex!!!

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WARNING: Much of the action depict­ed in this magazine is potentially dan­gerous. Virtually all of the riders seen in our photos are experienced ex­perts or professionals. Do not at­tempt to duplicate any stunts that are be­yond your own capabilities. Always wear the appropriate safety gear.

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